Tracing The Hooghly



The principal river that flows through Kolkata is known mistakenly as the Ganga or Ganges, while it is a distributary known and recognised as Hooghly. For my own learning, I intend to trace the course and the history of the Hooghly river, as without its study, any history of this city is incomplete. The Hooghly river rises in Giria where the Ganges splits itself into two distributaries – the Hooghly and the Padma with the latter flowing into Bangladesh while the former flows into West Bengal. The Hooghly is 260km long and is fed largely by the man-made Farakkha Feeder Canal rather than the natural river source at Giria.

Tracing the Ganga to Bengal

The Ganges is a transboundary Asian river that flows through both India and Bangladesh and is the most sacred river in Hindu religion. The 2,525 km long river rises in the western Himalayas in the Indian state of Uttarakhand and flows south and east through the Gangetic field of Northern India. The Ganga has two headstreams – the Bhagirathi and the Alaknanda. While the Bhagirathi stream is considered to be the source stream in Hindu scriptures, hydrology (the study of the quality and movement of water) holds Alaknanda as the source stream on account of its great length and discharge.

The main stream of the Ganges begins at the confluence of these two rivers at Deviprayag in the Garhwal division of Uttarakhand. Although many small streams comprise the headwaters of the Ganges, the six longest and their five confluences are considered sacred. The six headstreams are the Alaknanda, Dhauliganga, Nandakini, Pindar, Mandakini, and Bhagirathi rivers. The five confluences, known as the Panch Prayag, are all along the Alaknanda. They are, in downstream order, Vishnuprayag, where the Dhauliganga joins the Alaknanda; Nandprayag, where the Nandakini joins; Karnaprayag, where the Pindar joins, Rudraprayag, where the Mandakini joins; and finally, Devprayag, where the Bhagirathi joins the Alaknanda to form the Ganges River proper.

Along the way between Allahabad and Malda, West Bengal, the Ganges passes the towns of Chunar, Mirzapur, Varanasi, Ghazipur, Patna, Hajipur, Chapra, Bhagalpur, Ballia, Buxar, Simaria, Sultanganj, and Saidpur. At Bhagalpur, the river begins to flow south-southeast and at Pakur, it begins its attrition with the branching away of its first distributary, the Bhāgirathi-Hooghly, which goes on to become the Hooghly River.

Hooghly, Adi Ganga and Tribeni

Tribeni is a small town in the northern part of Bansberia Municipality in Hooghly in the state of West Bengal, India. It was an old holy place for the Hindus. The sanctity of the place has been recognized for many centuries and has been mentioned in Pavana-Dutam, a Sanskrit piece of the last quarter of the 12th century.

Tribeni is said to get its name from the divergence of three rivers from the main stream of the Ganges – Hooghly, Jamuna and Saraswati and was also known as Muktaveni in order to distinguish it from Prayag in Allahabad which was known as Yuktaveni. The Saraswati flowed south-west beyond Saptagram and the Jamuna – which is unrelated to both the North Indian river Yamuna and to the East Bengal river Jamuna – flows past the northern border of the modern-day Kalyani. It is believed that the Satraswati river flowed into an estuary near present day Tamluk – then Tamralipta – and was fed by the waters of both the Damodar and the Rupnarayan in addition to several other streams before emptying out into the sea. Till the 16th century, the Saraswati channel contained the flow of the main waters of the Ganges.

The Bhagirathi proper channel (named in today’s terms) of this divergence flowed through the present Hooghly channel to Kolkata and then through the Adi Ganga past Kalighat to the sea. Adi Ganga was known earlier as Gobindapur Creek and marked the southern boundary of Gobindapur village. It was excavated by Edward Surman, who led a group to Delhi in 1717. The nullah was deepened by Colonel William Tolly in 1773 and connected to the Circular Canal. Thereafter, it bore his name. In 1775, Tolly connected the Adi Ganga to the Vidyadhari. Since Tolly’s renovation the Adi Ganga has remained navigable. However, the neglect of waterways in general and other factors such as population pressure and unplanned urbanisation caused further silting of Adi Ganga. It ultimately turned into a sewer channel for the south-western part of Kolkata.

In the 16th century, the main waters of the Bhagirathi which previously used to flow through the Saraswati, now began to flow through the Hoogly channel. This resulted in the upper saraswati being a dead and dry river while the Hooghly abandoned the course of the Adi Ganga and partook that of the lower Saraswati. In his Manasamangal, Bipradas Piplai has described the journey path of Chand Saudagor, the merchant, as passing Chitpur, Betore, Kalighat, Churaghat, Baruipur, Chhatrabhog, Badrikunda, Hathiagarh, Choumukhi, Satamukhi and Sagarsangam. The description of Bipradas Piplai tallies to a large extent with Van den Brouck’s map of 1660.

Some quarters ascribe the change in the Bhagirathi flow and the  virtual drying up of Adi Ganga to the artificial link to the lower channel of the Saraswati, whereby that became the main channel for oceangoing ships and the Adi Ganga became derelict. This feat is ascribed by some to Nawab Alivardi Khan. Others think that a tidal creek connecting the Saraswati and the Hooghly, near the point where the Adi Ganga branched off was the cause. It is rumoured that Dutch traders re-sectioned this tidal creek to let seagoing vessels come up the Bhagirathi. In olden times, no river flowed from Khiderpor to Sankrail, as testified by Abul Fazl’s Ain-i-Akbari, but the Dutch traders were responsible for creating the Hooghly-Saraswati river connection. Documents found in the Rotterdam Municipality archives indicate the presence of toll collection points along the connected waterway in the middle of the 18th century, making this channel between Khiderpore and Sankail known as Katiganga.

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